New York fashion week: Coach takes an outsider’s view of classic Americana

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Creative director Stuart Vevers drew deeply on his time in Santa Fe for his 1941 show

Increasingly, fashion is keen on providing a moment as well as a fashion show. At New York fashion week, Coach was no different. The venue for the Tuesday afternoon 1941 show, a warehouse space on the Hudson, was transformed into a movie set: glittery sand underfoot and dominated by a huge dinosaur made of rusty salvaged metal. Elsewhere, there was a shopping trolley, and a burnt-out car. Think the world of Mad Max Fury Road, but with celebrities like Whoopi Goldberg and Lakeith Stanfield and fashion models as its inhabitants.

The collection could be described as punk meets prairie, with models wearing frilled Little House on the dresses, with biker jackets and earrings made from forks. Denim, leather and shearling dominated, with an XXXXL hoodie the shape for next spring. In a collaboration with Disney, 101 Dalmatians, the Aristocats and Bambi scampered down the catwalk. A Dumbo sweater, meanwhile, is destined to stamp all over social media.

Coachs 1941 show at New York Fashion Week. Photograph: Billy Farrell/BFA/Rex/Shutterstock

Backstage after the show, creative director Stuart Vevers said he had been inspired by 24 hours spent in Sante Fe. I did the turquoise trail, and I loved all the little communities where it felt like a house was propped up with an airplane wing. Then I went to Ghost Ranch [where Georgia OKeefe lived] and the landscapes felt almost alien, and to a nightclub called El Matador … The scavenging and salvaging, mixed with the alien landscape mixed with the western new romantic club scene, I was like: That feels good.

British-born Vevers joined Coach in 2013 and has gained fans for his outsiders take on classic American style. He has referred to everything from road trips to punk culture in collections and his strength has been cleverly straddling the balance between cool and mass appeal collaborating with both the Keith Haring Foundation and Selena Gomez in the same year, for example. This collection showed him continuing in the same vein.

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